a story of ledbury

what led us to now. and how …

It’s been 43 days and 11 hours since I last set foot in Ledbury (Herefordshire, England). It’s what “days.to” says, at least. I googled it, just to make sure I got it right. I have been meaning to write this since the beginning of July 2024, but life happens and we get carried away by whatever comes our way. And yet now, here I am, 2,728 km away from Ledbury. This time around, Google Maps says so. It also states that it takes 477 hours to walk the distance. I’ve walked my fair share of kilometers, but I won’t take it that far.

There’s this dependency on electronics these days that I fight my own battles with. Be it taking photos of every single thing or looking up directions without making a single effort to use one’s bearings; I try not to use my smartphone too much, whatever “much” means in this context. I like to remember things as they were, even if memory tends to obscure facts, even if time washes away their vivid clarity. In Ledbury, I kept snapping to a minimum. I took photos that would act as a springboard to remember significant moments (while using my phone to navigate my way around). And so, 43 days later, I am writing this through my memories of a lovely stay in Ledbury one photo at a time. As for the rest, the gaps are filled with impressions of a mood I long to carry with me and linger on after the cooler weather has worn away. Much like reading a book and not remembering every single detail, but knowing the story left a lasting mark and a pleasant aftertaste.

Living for three days in such a city of books was a pleasure, and an honour. When setting foot there, I could already feel an air of festivity taking over. As I always do, I went for a stroll to get accustomed to my surroundings. Mistaking the town for a village or even a city, I was reminded by locals of the smallness of it. I was in awe of the beautiful buildings. Who would’ve said that buildings would leave such a positive impact on me? Shops of every kind lined the main street: an ironmonger, an eye centre, a boutique, a supermarket, a ceramics shop, a vegetable monger, a pharmacy, a charity shop. All businesses operate from tiny and humble spots that boast their style while preserving a building that withstood time.

The people of Ledbury are a pleasure to be with and talk to. They know books, stories, legends, history, and music. Time seems to not have shaken them except for imbuing their person with knowledge and a sense of awe and wonder. Locals still send emails whenever they remember an anecdote or relic related to Malta. Audiences were indeed much intrigued by the Maltese language. What a strange feeling — to talk in your native tongue to an audience who does not understand a single word. It feels like you are talking to yourself, and somehow, you still feel as if you are creating connections. Because words are more than mere sounds and meanings. They are uttered with intention. They carry emotion, and that emotion resonates every single time, in different manners, in settings unlike the ones before. From halls to churches, poetry flooded this town that comes alive (more than usual) each year during these poetry days.

I visited Ledbury for the Ledbury Poetry Festival on behalf of Versopolis. This year, the Festival took place between the 28th of June and the 7th of July. I was invited to be part of two events. The first event was a conversation with Alexandros Chronides from Cyprus led by Kimberly Campanello, a Ledbury Poetry Trustee, poet, and Professor of Poetry. During our conversation we touched upon the musicality of language and the politics of translation, the history of Maltese poetry, and women, amongst other topics. I also had the privilege to read some of my poems. This event also served as a chapbook launch, a lovely initiative by Versopolis whereby each author invited to a Festival is translated into that country’s language and published in a little book. I had the privilege of working with Glenn Storhaug from Five Seasons Press who did a lovely job in producing this little book.

The second event was a twenty-minute talk. I was given free rein, and so I chose to tread the realm of trees. Here is what I had to say on the day.

As for the rest of my time, I spent it at the Ledbury Poetry House flipping through books, eating cake, and chatting with lovely poets whom I admire and have had the honour to meet there. It was lovely to meet so many students who took the time to volunteer during the Festival. Students are encouraged year in,year out to volunteer at this festival whereby fresh blood is ensured for years to come. Afternoons were spent chatting with Alexandros who insisted on being called Alex, exchanging stories and finding so many similarities in personal stories but also national histories. One of the evenings took the form of a cider supper: “Every year, Ledbury Poetry Festival hosts a cider supper for its visiting poets, in honour of another cider supper that happened five miles away and a hundred years ago.” During the cider supper, I had the honour to meet Amy Howard, the newly appointed director of the festival who welcomed us with such warmth. The same can be said for the lovely Sabeen Chaudhry whom I had been exchanging emails with for months before and was overjoyed to meet in person then.

My much-beloved host, Caroline, gave me a lovely room, and I was overjoyed that the household, besides residents of the human kind, had a resident of the canine type. After one of my morning walks, Caroline advised me of the Ledbury walking trail, and for the two consecutive mornings that followed I took that circular path. Wandering the streets of Ledbury led me to see loads of placards saying ‘Ellie Chowns’ whom I later learned is a British Green Party politician, serving as Member of Parliament for North Herefordshire. A lot of Ledbury residents were in fact campaigning for her to get elected in the UK. Walking across the cemetery, I was surprised to see an over-the-top monument for what I assumed was a recently deceased grandma. Never in my life have I encountered such theatricality in the context of a cemetery. It was a joy to meet Philip Weaver, the one with the little books, as he calls himself, at one of the museums who kindly donated one of his small books to me. It is one of eight hand-made, small books he made on his eightieth birthday. Although I did not get the opportunity to visit the Butcher Row House, one of its members kept in touch and they did send me information about the HMS Ledbury that “was involved in bringing the damaged oil tanker Ohio into Valletta harbour”, as Barry Sharples claims. I also got to visit the homely Ledbury Library at The Master's House, which started its life as a home for the Master of St Katherine's Hospital.

The way back to Malta was not without its bumps and humps. There were train delays, understaffed journeys, and overcrowded spaces. My way back reminded me of Robert Frost’s verses:

Two roads diverged in a wood, and I—

I took the one less traveled by,

And that has made all the difference.

Having been in Ledbury could be seen as a coincidence or a result. A gift. I still don’t know what led us to now and how, but I am ever so grateful to have had the opportunity to live three days overflowing with poetry. I long to visit Ledbury again someday.

Heartfelt thanks to Versopolis and Inizjamed, and, of course, Ledbury, for making this happen.